“Haute couture is historical and romantic, and even some of my collections play on these qualities,” Simone Rocha told Vogue. Her first haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier (held in the designer’s Parisian headquarters, fittingly once a ribbon factory) brings elements of modernity and reality to the project in order “to push it forward for today.” And on today’s runway, the recognisable codes of her work were alive and well, from the crystal embellishments that make-up artist Thomas de Kluyver glued to eyebrows, lids, and lips (reminiscent of the Irish folklore-inspired looks he created for Rocha) to the pink ribbons Rocha wore tied into her own hair for her finale walk.
The show opened with a set of clear jewel-encrusted nails designed by artist Ama Quashie, along with floating bow earrings tied from angel-thin strands of hair. The next look was accessorised by a pair that delivered the optical illusion of perfectly pinned space buns against the gentle waves and bends that hair artist Holli Smith created on models. De Kluyver’s faceted make-up looks were undeniably successful at punctuating — without overpowering — pieces draped from fabrics that ranged from structured woven silks to illusion-thin tulle.
Tess McMillan and Amelia Gray’s lips were each pursed with black jewels, and Alex Consani and Kristen Owen wore crystallised bridal gazes. The effect was ethereal and full of heart, much like Rocha’s attitude she shared with Vogue’s Liam Freeman moments ahead of the presentation: “Couture is seen as something that is untouchable, but it is all about soul – that is what makes it special.”
